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		<title>cre.ations.net</title>
		<link>http://cre.ations.net/</link>
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A haven for creators and makers, cre.ations.net is the place to quickly publish anything you've created.  Free and easy!
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		<copyright>Copyright 2006, cre.ations.net</copyright>
		<lastBuildDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:01:28 -0600</lastBuildDate>
		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:01:28 -0600</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[My own POV toy for fun!]]></title>
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<div style='text-align: center;'><a href=''><img src='http://cre.ations.net/image/view/160/3559' /></a></div><i>Created by <a href='http://cre.ations.net/creator/seemanta'>seemanta</a> 1 year ago</i>: &quot;This POV toy was inspired by the Binary/POV clock by Natetrue which fascinated me very much.
For this project, I have used an ATMEL AT89S52 microcontroller which is based upon the 8052 core.

I have used a column of 8 LEDs for creating the POV effect. The code for this is quite simple and so I  have not bothered to post it here. You can post a comment if you want it. 

Initially it was not working properly because the delay I had used between lighting up each column was about 40 milliseconds.

Then after some searching on the net for similar POV toys led me to believe 10 milliseconds might be a good delay. 

And sure enough, 10 milliseconds made it work. I guess that it is the optimum speed taking into consideration the speed of the moving arm.

So here it is, my latest POV toy. Comments are welcome! 
Below are some time progression snaps that I took when I was making...&quot;<p><a href='http://cre.ations.net/creation/my-own-pov-toy-for-fun'>Read the rest of this post</a></p>
			]]></content>
			<description><![CDATA[
			 <div style='text-align: center;'><a href=''><img src='http://cre.ations.net/image/view/160/3559' /></a></div><i>Created by <a href='http://cre.ations.net/creator/seemanta'>seemanta</a> 1 year ago</i>: &quot;This POV toy was inspired by the Binary/POV clock by Natetrue which fascinated me very much.
For this project, I have used an ATMEL AT89S52 microcontroller which is based upon the 8052 core.

I have used a column of 8 LEDs for creating the POV effect. The code for this is quite simple and so I  have not bothered to post it here. You can post a comment if you want it. 

Initially it was not working properly because the delay I had used between lighting up each column was about 40 milliseconds.

Then after some searching on the net for similar POV toys led me to believe 10 milliseconds might be a good delay. 

And sure enough, 10 milliseconds made it work. I guess that it is the optimum speed taking into consideration the speed of the moving arm.

So here it is, my latest POV toy. Comments are welcome! 
Below are some time progression snaps that I took when I was making...&quot;<p><a href='http://cre.ations.net/creation/my-own-pov-toy-for-fun'>Read the rest of this post</a></p>
			]]></description>
			<link>http://cre.ations.net/creation/my-own-pov-toy-for-fun</link>
			<guid>http://cre.ations.net/creation/my-own-pov-toy-for-fun</guid>
			<category>Toys</category>
			<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 09:19:02 -0500</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Interfacing an LCD with an Arduino Board!]]></title>
			<content type='text/html' mode='escaped' xml:lang='en-US'><![CDATA[
<div style='text-align: center;'><a href=''><img src='http://cre.ations.net/image/view/160/3547' /></a></div><i>Created by <a href='http://cre.ations.net/creator/seemanta'>seemanta</a> 1 year ago</i>: &quot;I used my recently purchased Arduino board to interface a Hitachi HD44780 compatible LCD. With Arduino, as usual the code was quite simple. In fact, I spent more time building the circuit than in writing the code.

The only disadvantage I found in the Arduino board was that the PORTD and PORTB sockets have a small gap in between them. Because of this gap, I am not able to evenly fit male-female socket pairs. As a result, I cannot make small home-made Arduino shields using general purpose PCBs.


The result? I had to cut pieces of a circuit board with a hack saw, make 2 thin strips, and then had to solder my connectors over...&quot;<p><a href='http://cre.ations.net/creation/interfacing-lcd-with-arduino-board'>Read the rest of this post</a></p>
			]]></content>
			<description><![CDATA[
			 <div style='text-align: center;'><a href=''><img src='http://cre.ations.net/image/view/160/3547' /></a></div><i>Created by <a href='http://cre.ations.net/creator/seemanta'>seemanta</a> 1 year ago</i>: &quot;I used my recently purchased Arduino board to interface a Hitachi HD44780 compatible LCD. With Arduino, as usual the code was quite simple. In fact, I spent more time building the circuit than in writing the code.

The only disadvantage I found in the Arduino board was that the PORTD and PORTB sockets have a small gap in between them. Because of this gap, I am not able to evenly fit male-female socket pairs. As a result, I cannot make small home-made Arduino shields using general purpose PCBs.


The result? I had to cut pieces of a circuit board with a hack saw, make 2 thin strips, and then had to solder my connectors over...&quot;<p><a href='http://cre.ations.net/creation/interfacing-lcd-with-arduino-board'>Read the rest of this post</a></p>
			]]></description>
			<link>http://cre.ations.net/creation/interfacing-lcd-with-arduino-board</link>
			<guid>http://cre.ations.net/creation/interfacing-lcd-with-arduino-board</guid>
			<category>Gadgets</category>
			<pubDate>Thu, 14 Aug 2008 07:30:38 -0500</pubDate>
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